• threebirdsandstitc

Homebound Quilt Pattern Tutorial

Updated: Nov 11, 2020




When opening the pages of the Homebound Quilt you will be greeted with two options for Fabric 1, a Fat Quarter Version, or a three color Solid Version. Which ever you decide make be sure to following the cutting instructions for using either one or the other. For this quilt I am making a 74 x 74 throw size using the Ruby Star Society Candlelight collection in both the print FQ Bundle and Linen FQ Bundle.



If you want to make this particular quilt, below is the adjustments I made to the pattern using the collection above.

Fabric 1-  10 FQ Bundle of Candlelight Prints

First take the Winter Garden in Poinsettia out of the bundle, this is the print used in Fabric 3. For the rest of the FQ follow the Crib cutting amounts, and cut that exact amount from 9 FQ's, for example from the 4.5 strip you will need 12 from each FQ

Fabric 2- 9 FQ Bundle of Linen,

cut 4 of each strip size from 8FQ's, and cut 8  of each size from 1FQ.

Fabric 3 - Winter Garden in Poinsettia from Candlelight

The cut amount is 36 per each strip size, and the yardage needed is 3/4 yard. Remember I took this print out of the FQ bundle

Background 5 1/4 Yards- Using the pattern and the notes above make the cutting adjustments to each size as you make the quilt.

Binding- 5/8 yard

Fabric 1 and 2 Strip Construction

The Homebound blocks that make up the main Star blocks are constructed similar to Log Cabin Blocks.  But the strips are constructed first using the same method to make binding. Tip: Pre-mark the background fabrics using a hera marker and ruler or by folding and pressing with an iron.  This will help ensure a clean and straight line as you build these strips.  Remember each strip is built in two different directions. One to the right and one to the left!

To make sewing the strips faster I pre-pinned all my pieces and chain pieced the strips. If you unsure about what chain piecing is here is a link to youtube video on how to chain piece,   

I started with all the strip 1 and then worked on the strip 2 for Fabric 1.

Then moved on to the Fabric 2 strips, again working on the first strip then the second..




......using a ruler trim a 1/4" away from the seam, towards the outer corner and press open. This method will continue as you make all the strips for both Fabric 1 and Fabric 2.


Cutting that block down the center,  You can do it! 

This is where the block starts to build toward that beautiful Star Block that makes the whole pattern come together.  I know it can be frightful to put a rotary cutter to a freshly sewn and pressed block, but I promise the end result is worth it. I will walk you through how I find it's best to do this.

  • First I line up my block on my mat along a straight line, as I have done in the image.  Place the ruler on top following that same line on the cutting mat. Using the rotary cutter trim down the center.

  • There will be two triangle halves, That's it.... Now it's time to bring them back together.  Of course, I recommend reading the instruction on Page 7 thoroughly, so the correct blocks are sewn together. 

  • To get both of the triangles even, I press all my triangles in half and my strip. Match up the creased lines or centers and sew a 1/4" seam, do the same with the other half and the block is back together.  



*I find that going slowly through each block and pressing with an iron helps to keep the halves center as I reconnect them




Time to trim those blocks! The easiest way to trim the block (refer to page 7 in the pattern for the correct dimensions), is to take a square /wide ruler, and line it up along the two outer edges, using the 45 degree angle on the ruler as a center guide going down the middle of the strip. See the image below for how I line up the ruler.  From there trim up each corner and the block to meet the correct dimensions and rotate and trim the last two sides. Remember the block will have some room and stretching from the bias edges so press the block with an iron first before trimming.

From here the blocks come together pretty easily to create larger center and border blocks to the quilt.  

It's really about adding in the correct sashing size and matching up the seams to keep the sashing even throughout the quilt

Pin...Pin...Pin...to help avoid that seam ripper. The biggest challenge to this is sewing on a 45 degree angle. For me the dining room table was a big help to hold that weight as I sewed.




Trimming up the quilt top can be a challenge. Here's how I do it

  1. First start by pressing the quilt top with an iron and making sure all the seams are flat so the quilt top lays flat on whatever surface you plan to trim on.

  2. Start by lining the ruler up on the edge of the quilt, using the seam points towards the outer edge as a base.  You should be able to line up the ruler on those points at the 1/4" line and trim.

  3. Go slowly, it's better to trim a little bit as you go.  If you have to go back and measure and re-trim then do i


Adding Borders:  Once the quilt is together you will notice the edges are a bit stretchy, this pattern does create bias edgin, this is why I added borders to help control and give the quilt structure during the quilting process.  However, borders can be a challenge and wavy if not added correctly, which for a longarmer can be a big challenge.  

  • So first, lay your quilt on a flat surface, using measuring tap, find the dimensions down the center of the quilt and write those down. Cut and make the appropriate length and width for the border pieces attaching them per the pattern directions. Cut the strips to the correct length of the quilt you just made.  Pin or clip the border to the quilt, starting on the outsides first, then the center and pin in-between to keep it from shifting

  • Repeat the same steps to attach the last two borders.  The quilt once fully pressed should lay flat for easy quilting.





Once the quilt is finished it's time to baste and quilt it up. 


However, if you'd like to get it longarmed feel free to check out my design catalog, or we can choose a great design together.  See what design I chose to finish my quilt below.

Happy Quilting! Valerie





Finished Quilt

I chose the Midnight Sparkle Design for this finished quilt. It's one of my favorite designs. It creates the perfect amount of quilting without becoming stiff and dense, so the drop after the first wash is perfection! The design work for an array of quilt patterns. I backed this quilt using a pre-washed Target Flannel sheet to give it maximum coziness and it has become the house favorite. Visit my Longarm Services page if your interested in this design on your next quilt.



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